Mold and Mildew Fungus that grows in damp and dark areas, and cause discoloration, or musty odors.
Moldy Odors This is the result of the decay process from mold, and dry rot.
Peeling Paint Peeling paint is a sign that you have moisture problems and waterproofing issues.
Damp Spots on Walls Water has absorbed through your walls.
White Substance on Basement Walls This is a chemical breakdown of the bonding agent that holds your walls together. This white substance is a sign of possible structural deterioration.
Cracked Walls Should be inspected to determine the exact cause.
Rust on Appliances or Furniture Like furnaces. Rust is caused by a wet environment and is the sign of waterproofing issues.
Dry Rot Black fungus grows mostly on walls or wooden surfaces, causing wood to decay.
To find toxic black mold solutions, visit StartRemodeling
You can use a waterproofing concrete sealer like HyrdaLoc and Homeseal. HomeSeal is formulated for new concrete only while HyrdaLoc is formulated for water problems or old concrete.
HyrdaLoc is a two-application process that is simply sprayed onto the concrete with a low-pressure (garden type) pump sprayer. You don't have to be afraid to use HyrdaLoc in your home because it is Non-toxic, Non-hazardous and Non-flammable. It has No VOC’s (Volatile Organic Compounds) - No Solvents. HyrdaLoc is a water-based, fast drying, penetrating concrete sealer that has no unpleasant odor. Clean-up is with clean tap water.
HyrdaLoc does a lot more than just waterproof your concrete. It solves potential health problems associated with a damp or wet basement. Migrating moisture creates a breeding ground for mold spores and mildew not to mention that "damp basement odor". It can greatly reduce the health risks associated with the transmission of Cancer Causing Radon. It stops Radon before it enters your home unlike fan systems that allow it in and then vent it back outside.
Whether you are finishing your basement to convert it into usable living space or just using it for storage, applying HyrdaLoc concrete waterproofing sealer will make the basement a useable, pleasant, safe and odor free area.
Click here to find out more about basement concrete sealers on ConcreteSealers.com
A wet cellar can dramatically reduce the value of your home. Studies show that most people won't even consider buying a home with water leakage. Selling a home with water leaks can easily result in as much as a 25% reduction in the sale price.
Even if you rarely have problems with dampness or flooding, it's best to solve the problem completely before doing any remodeling work. Permanent solutions can take time to implement. A good place to start is to talk to an independent home inspector who specializes in waterproofing problems.
Proper insulation is critical to creating a comfortable, dry basement. Besides keeping out the cold, basement insulation prevents condensation. The ground stays cool year round. It in turn keeps basement walls cool. When the warmer air in the room comes in contact with all those cool walls, it has to give up some of its moisture in the form of condensation. In fact, condensation is the primary source of the moisture that causes mold and mildew problems in basements. Effective insulation separates the warm air of the room from the cool walls, thereby preventing the moisture problems that stem from condensation. (see below the top-10 most common insulation mistakes in basements)
Perhaps the most fundamental and often overlooked mistake do-it-yourselfers make when insulating is neglecting to find out the most efficient R-value for their area and insulating accordingly. Other common mistakes are listed below.
1. Not providing for good air circulation between the roof and the insulation.
2. Installing fiberglass batting with the paper side (vapor barrier) facing toward the outside instead of toward the heated area.
3. Omitting a vapor barrier, which prevents accumulation of moisture between the batting and the underside of the roof or wall.
4. Puncturing the vapor barrier unnecessarily, or neglecting to puncture the vapor barrier of the top batt when installing two layers.
5. Distorting, compressing, or squeezing the fiberglass batt insulation out of shape.
6. Using paper-faced batting against a heat source like a chimney, a heating duct, etc.
7. Neglecting to get into all of the small spaces and corners with the insulation.
8. Covering eaves vents with insulation, thereby cutting off ventilation.
9. Making unnecessary trips up and down the attic stairs during installation. Assemble all tools and equipment in your work area prior to beginning the job.
10. Not using closed-cell (waterproof), rigid foam insulation panels on below grade installations